Kathmandu

Kathmandu is where almost every Nepal trip begins, and where most people wish they had given themselves an extra day. The valley holds three medieval city squares, two of the most important Buddhist stupas anywhere, and a Hindu temple complex on the river that has been in continuous use for well over a thousand years.

It is also a working capital of two million people, so expect traffic, dust and noise alongside the carved windows. That contrast is the city. Get up early, walk the old lanes before the shutters go up, and it makes sense very quickly.

Highlights

• Pashupatinath The riverside temple complex on the Bagmati, and the evening aarti on the far bank.
• Boudhanath One of the largest stupas in the world. Walk the kora at dusk with everyone else.
• Swayambhunath The hilltop stupa above the valley, reached by a long stair and a lot of monkeys.
• Durbar Squares Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur — three royal squares, each worth its own half day.

Things to do in Kathmandu

Best time to visit Kathmandu

• January Good
• February Good
• March Best
• April Best
• May Good
• June Possible
• July Possible
• August Possible
• September Good
• October Best
• November Best
• December Good

How to reach Kathmandu

• By air Tribhuvan International is the country's main airport and sits inside the city itself.
• Overland from Gorakhpur Road to the border, then on to Kathmandu. A long day, and the one most of our travellers take.
• Getting around Taxis and ride apps work well. We include a car with driver on most itineraries.

Travel tips

• Traffic is unpredictable — allow more time between sights than the map suggests.
• Dress modestly at temple sites; shoulders and knees covered saves an argument at the gate.
• Some temple courtyards are open only to Hindus. Your guide will tell you which.
• Carry small notes. Entry fees and offerings rarely have change.

Photos